Wednesday, August 18, 2010

The Palio di Siena

The Palio di Siena is a horse race held twice a year on July 2nd and August 16th in Siena, Italy. I had the great honor of learning about it while studying abroad in Siena. It is one of the main things Siena is known for, along with it's medieval traditions, tuscan landscape, and chianti wine. Siena is separated into seventeen "Contradas". The contradas are all distinct areas of the city and are represented by certain colors and a mascot. If you visit, you will notice that each area has their contrada flags up and many trinkets are sold all around of the flag, handkerchiefs, keychains, etc. What I loved most is the pride that every contrada had and really put everyone in the competitive spirit. It is almost the equivalent we have for our different schools and sports teams but much more intense as they are all living next to each other. =) True rivalry!


The palio is held in the Piazza del Campo. This area is normally a great spot to relax, have a drink, and people-watch but on these two days, turns into an arena packed with spectators. At each of these two days... only ten of the seventeen contradas compete. They are chosen through a random draw of their "ball" that represents them with their colors. The jockey and horses make three rounds around the Campo and the race lasts no more than 90 seconds. One thing to note is that the race is won by the horse and not by the jockey. So if the jockey were to ever fall off the horse, the horse can still finish the race on its own and win.

For whatever contrada wins, they earn ultimate bragging rights for the year, the craziest celebrations and parades around the town. In fact, there were many times that I would be awaken by contradas marching by, singing and beating their drums and other instruments. A true spectacle!

One of my best memories was when we were invited to a contrada party. We were given one little ball which we handed over to be given a ceramic mug. With this mug, we could drink as much wine as we wanted. Just had to get it refilled every time. It was such a great time. Not just because we drank liters and liters, but the atmosphere was filled with laughter, unity and traditions. It was definitely an experience of a lifetime that I will never forget.

My contrada when I lived there was Nicchio. The fighting shell! =) Okay, so it might not sound so fierce, but do not underestimate the strength and pride!. It was great to be part of such great history. Unfortunately, Tartuga won this last one... =(

Siena is truly a unique town and I hold it dearly to my heart. If you ever decide to visit Tuscany, do not miss it.

P.S. To more easily identify with it, it was also shown at the beginning of the 007 movie Casino Royale.

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